The link you posted is not for the specific drive.
I don't doubt that you are seeing the sticker on the HDD as "WD2500BS". Such code indeed matches one possible naming method of older WDC products. But since it is not listed in WDC and there is no "specifications" page for such product, the only way to have such HDD is as part of another product of WDC (or buying it second hand).
Anyway, my intention was to avoid a long series of questions. For example:
1_ Is the HDD SATA_I or SATA_II (there is conflicting info, depending on the source)?
2_ Are you using a (red) SATA_I or a SATA_II cable? Or perhaps you are still using the original bundled WDC cable?
3_ Is the controller SATA_I or SATA_II?
4_ Is this HDD connected internally and directly to the mainboard?
5_ Which HDD jumpers are you using, if any?
6_ Which BIOS settings are you using (AHCI? RAID?, legacy? …)?
If you are using this HDD with some other connection (USB-SATA, or eSATA for example), then perhaps DataLifeGuard Diagnostics for DOS might not provide correct results. The fact that the software (in this particular version of the tool) identifies the HDD doesn't mean it supports it for correct scanning. It may, or maybe not.
You could try using an older version of DLG Diagnostics, if the drive controller and the cable are the correct ones.
Generally speaking, if the drive is working (no "clicking" sounds, no bad connections,...) and if Windows can detect the drive, there are many freeware tools that list the S.M.A.R.T. values of each HDD in your system, in which case you could confirm the values you already received.
In general, when threshold values are met, it might indicate that the HDD is much closer to its EndOfLife. Just as a HDD with "nice" SMART values can crash without previous signs, having "ugly" values does not necessarily mean that the HDD is already "in bad shape with 100% of certainty". But, it would be wise to have backups of the important info in such drive.
In some cases, bad SMART values might be originated by bad cables or something else in the system, so eventually changing the HDD might not solve the source of the problem.
I don't doubt that you are seeing the sticker on the HDD as "WD2500BS". Such code indeed matches one possible naming method of older WDC products. But since it is not listed in WDC and there is no "specifications" page for such product, the only way to have such HDD is as part of another product of WDC (or buying it second hand).
Anyway, my intention was to avoid a long series of questions. For example:
1_ Is the HDD SATA_I or SATA_II (there is conflicting info, depending on the source)?
2_ Are you using a (red) SATA_I or a SATA_II cable? Or perhaps you are still using the original bundled WDC cable?
3_ Is the controller SATA_I or SATA_II?
4_ Is this HDD connected internally and directly to the mainboard?
5_ Which HDD jumpers are you using, if any?
6_ Which BIOS settings are you using (AHCI? RAID?, legacy? …)?
If you are using this HDD with some other connection (USB-SATA, or eSATA for example), then perhaps DataLifeGuard Diagnostics for DOS might not provide correct results. The fact that the software (in this particular version of the tool) identifies the HDD doesn't mean it supports it for correct scanning. It may, or maybe not.
You could try using an older version of DLG Diagnostics, if the drive controller and the cable are the correct ones.
Generally speaking, if the drive is working (no "clicking" sounds, no bad connections,...) and if Windows can detect the drive, there are many freeware tools that list the S.M.A.R.T. values of each HDD in your system, in which case you could confirm the values you already received.
In general, when threshold values are met, it might indicate that the HDD is much closer to its EndOfLife. Just as a HDD with "nice" SMART values can crash without previous signs, having "ugly" values does not necessarily mean that the HDD is already "in bad shape with 100% of certainty". But, it would be wise to have backups of the important info in such drive.
In some cases, bad SMART values might be originated by bad cables or something else in the system, so eventually changing the HDD might not solve the source of the problem.